In Seville, people eat standing up, hopping from bar to bar and in good company. Here, tapas aren’t just a dining option: they’re the way the city socialises, which is why eating well in Seville isn’t about finding a good restaurant, but about learning a ritual. This guide brings together what we recommend to our guests when they ask where to start: how the tapas scene works, what to order and which neighbourhoods to explore.

The culture of tapas: how it works

The ritual is simple and has its own rules. You go into a bar, order a caña or a glass of manzanilla, have it with one or two tapas, and then move on to the next bar. Nobody does the whole route in one place: tapas-hopping is, by definition, a travelling affair, and each stop has its own speciality.

One thing that sets Seville apart from almost all other Spanish capital cities is that in many neighbourhood bars, a tapa is still served on the house with every drink. It’s a tradition that endures, particularly away from the main tourist areas, and discovering it is part of the fun.

What to eat in Seville: the dishes you must try

These are the dishes we consider a must-try on a first visit:

Fried fish is the local religion: marinated dogfish, baby squid and anchovies, fried to perfection – which here is an art form in its own right. Spinach with chickpeas, a legacy of Moorish cuisine, is the dish that most surprises those trying it for the first time: humble in appearance, memorable in flavour.

The menu is rounded off with Jabugo Iberian ham, from the neighbouring Sierra de Huelva; beef stewing meat and whisky-glazed sirloin, two bar classics; salmorejo, thicker than gazpacho and topped with ham and egg; ‘papas aliñás’, which call for good-quality olive oil and little else; and ‘huevos a la flamenca’, cooked in an earthenware casserole. From the nearby sea come Sanlúcar prawns and cockles, which we recommend ordering whenever they appear on the blackboard.

Tapas with their own names

Some tapas are an integral part of Seville’s identity, and it’s worth knowing them by name. The montadito de pringá is the most typically Sevillian of them all: the meat from cocido, shredded and pressed onto bread – a bite that encapsulates centuries of making the most of leftovers. Next come the chicharrón de Cádiz – thin slices of pressed pork belly with lemon; pavías de bacalao – cod battered and fried in strips; and the potato omelette, which in Seville is ordered with onion and without any qualms. Every bar boasts a speciality, and asking the barman about it is the best way to get it right.

Where to go for tapas: the neighbourhoods, one by one

Triana is our top recommendation for a traditional tapas outing. Calle Betis, overlooking the river, is lined with bars offering the best views of the Guadalquivir, and the Triana market is a must-visit for fresh produce and for enjoying a bite to eat at the stalls amongst the locals.

In the city centre, the Santa Cruz neighbourhood boasts the highest concentration of bars in the city, ranging from century-old taverns to restaurants with tablecloths. Mateos Gago Street, which leads away from the Cathedral with the Giralda behind you, is the most popular with visitors, but it’s home to some excellent bars: our tip is to pop into any place where you see locals having a bite to eat.

And for a more contemporary side of Seville, the Alameda de Hércules and its surroundings are home to the city’s most creative scene: market-fresh cuisine, up-and-coming eateries and terraces packed with locals. La Macarena, a little further north, offers the most authentic neighbourhood tapas experience.

The Sevillian breakfast: the first lesson of the day

Breakfast deserves a chapter of its own, because in Seville it is a ritual with a set routine: toast made from village bread with extra virgin olive oil and tomato, or its heartier version, the ‘mollete’ with ‘manteca colorá’ – lard spiced with paprika, a culinary heritage of the south. Accompanied by a coffee and a glass of orange juice, it’s the most Sevillian way to start any day. At Tayko, we know this well: our breakfast is rooted in that very same tradition, with local produce at its heart.

What to drink: manzanilla, fino and rebujito

The wines served with Sevillian tapas come from the Jerez region, an hour’s drive from Seville: Sanlúcar manzanilla and Jerez fino – dry, chilled and perfect for tapas. They’re the natural choice at any bar. And in spring, rebujito makes an appearance – a mix of manzanilla and lemon fizz that’s drunk at the April Fair and is a welcome refreshment at any time of day in summer.

Start your tapas tour at the Puerta de Jerez

From Tayko Sevilla, there are tapas bars in every direction: Santa Cruz and Mateos Gago are just a few minutes’ walk away, and Triana is on the other side of the bridge, a short stroll along the river. The best route is the one you make up as you go along: choose a direction, pop into wherever smells good, and let the city take it from there.

Tayko Seville. The start of your story in the city.